6/27 - Morning flight to Lanzhou which was uneventful. Taxi driver at Lanzhou airport took us directly to a local famous noodle shop before we boarded a bus toward XiNing.
6/28 - day trip toward Qinghai Lake
- 赞普林卡:意为藏王园林,是吐谷浑首领诺葛钵和唐弘化公主为迎接公主进藏专门修建的行宫,“赞普林卡”规模宏大、富丽堂皇,是世界上唯一的一座藏王园林,大殿内127幅壁画和唐卡,反映了从青藏高原的起源,从吐蕃王朝的建立到历代的藏王。文成公主进藏到汉藏文化的传播以及藏区的发展,有很高的历史文化研究价值,它是高原几千年历史的缩影,藏民族文化的博物馆,集藏传佛教八大教派于一体的民族和谐会馆,“赞普林卡”还供奉着当年角斯罗王朝的两件镇国之宝:松赞干布和文成公主的千年玉佛像。
- 丹葛尔古城: 被誉为“海藏咽喉”、“茶马商都”的青海湟源丹噶尔古城。丹噶尔,即藏语“东科尔”的蒙语音译,意为“白海螺”,地处黄河北岸,西海之滨,湟水源头,距西宁市40公里。黄土高原与青藏高原在这里结合,农耕文化与草原文化在这里相交,唐蕃古道与丝绸南路在这里穿越,众多民族在这里集聚,素有“海藏咽喉”、“茶马商都”、“小北京”之美称。
- 日月山:坐落在青海省湟源县西部,属祁连山脉,古时为中原通向西南地区和西域等地的要冲。北魏明帝神龟元年(公元420年),僧人宋云自洛阳西行求经,便是取道日月山前往天竺的。后来,文成公主经日月山赴吐蕃和亲形成的唐蕃古道,则一直是宋元各代甘青地区通往川藏一带的必经之路。
- 倒淌河: 一条从东往西流的河,名为倒淌河。关于倒淌河的传说,人们众说不一。一山之隔,日月山以东,汉族民间千百年来的说法是:文成公主在赴西藏途中,到达日月山时,回首不见长安,西望一片苍凉,念家乡,思父母,悲恸不止,流泪西行,公主的泪汇成了这条倒淌的河……
- Finally Qinghai Lake, the largest salt lake in China: 古代称为“西海”,藏语又叫做“错温波”,意思是“青色的湖”;蒙古语称它为“库库诺尔”,即“蓝色的海洋”。是中国最大的咸水湖,也是第一大内陆湖
Didn't get back to town until 7pm.
6/29 Visited Xining's Dong Guan Mosque to learn some things about Chinese Islamic minoritygroup in the area.
Took afternoon train to Lanzhou first, then overnight sleeper to Jia Yu Guan
6/30 - arriving in Jia Yu Guan in the morning. Luckily the hotel let us check in and get settled in the room. After unloading luggage and freshen up, we hired a car and headed out for some sightseeing around the area.
- 悬壁长城:因筑于约四十五度的山脊之上,形似凌空倒挂,因而得名“悬壁长城”。 登上山顶,放眼望去,关外大漠的荒凉尽收眼底,仅有极少的片片绿洲点缀其中,显示出这里还有生命在与恶劣的自然环境进行顽强的抗争。 This part of the wall was completely rebuilt, but the view from the top was impressive.
- 天下第一墩: 即万里长城第一墩,是明万里长城西端的一墩台,由于位于讨赖河岸,因此也被称为“讨赖河墩”,距离嘉峪关关城约8公里。天下第一墩的地形奇险,墩台后面濒临五十多米高的讨赖河岸的悬崖,气势十分壮观,崖底水声滔天,崖岸黄土松动,十分危险。Nothing but a big pile of mound, however it is strategically located on cliff bank of the Laolai River. It's the starting point of the Ming greatwall that eventually stretches all the way to Shan Hai Guan (which meets the Pacific Ocean)
- 嘉峪关和长城博物馆:彻底把整个和长城有关的看了个遍,整个长城从第一墩开始到山海关,我们就差山海关没去过了
7/1 - took morning train to Dunhuang. After checking into the hotel, we headed out to Mogao Grotto, and then the sand dune which is in the back of the hotel
7/2 - Hired a car to explore few sightseeing spots west of Dunhuang
- 玉门关:今天前往玉门关景区,可以欣赏到一望无际的戈壁风光,以及虚无缥缈的海市蜃楼;形态逼真的天然睡佛以及戈壁中的沙生植物。这些景物与蓝天、大漠、绿草构成了一逼辽阔壮美的神奇画面。丝绸之路开通后,东西方文化、贸易交流日渐繁荣,为确保丝绸之路安全与畅通。大约公元前121年---107年间,汉武帝下令修建了“两关”,即:阳关、玉门关。
- 汉长城:沿线的城障烽燧,是汉代河西完整的军事防御体系的重要组成部分,也是西汉王朝构建河西乃至整个北方防御工程的历史缩影。虽经千百年来的风雨剥蚀,仍然巍然屹立在戈壁荒漠中,堪称中国保存最为完好的汉长城之一。
- 雅丹地质公园: 雅丹地貌群落,东西长约25公里,南北宽约4——5公里,敦煌人俗称魔鬼城。新发现的这处雅丹地貌,当大风刮过时,会发出各种怪叫声,因而也被人们称之为魔鬼城。“雅丹”——维吾尔语,原义为具有陡壁的土丘,是干燥地区的一种风蚀地貌”。。
- 阳关:阳关和玉门关都是通往西域的门户,一个在南,一个在北。出敦煌后必须走两个关口的其中一个,两者都是“丝绸之路”的重要关隘。自西汉以来,许多王朝都把这里作为军事重地派兵把守,多少将士曾在这里戌守征战;多少商商贾、僧侣、使臣、游客曾在这里验证出关;又有多少文人骚客面对阳关,感叹万千,写下不朽诗篇。高僧玄奘从印度取经回国,就是走丝路南道,东入阳关返回长安的。
We didn't get back to town until 8pm for dinner at the night market, though nightfall doesn't come until ~10pm.
7/3 - It was really hot during the day, we hung around and explored hotel grounds a bit. Then we had lunch and bought souvenir at downtown. After some afternoon coffee in the cafe, we went to board the overnight train back to Lanzhou.
7/4 - Train was late by an hour, and it was raining when we got into Lanzhou. We only went to see the Yellow River and took a short ride on a sheep skin raft to cross the Yellow River.